#476 Anything but Dolly-esque

Renowned for being bigger than Dolly Parton's brassiere and stronger than the clasps holding it together at the back, Australian Chardonnay and Shiraz rarely have the phrase 'Elegant' associated with them.  However, I tried two wines - that are current releases - from a pair of producers that were exactly that.

Firstly, the 2007 Vasse Felix Heytesbury Chardonnay.  From Margaret River, the wine is fermented with wild yeasts and then matured in French barriques for nine months.  The result is a wine with very subtle oak coming through, ginger notes giving seasoning to the pineapple aromas.  The palate is so simple, yet beautifully made - clean mineral elements, woody flavours dominating but in a lovely, light way, and then having more fruit as a secondary flavour, with slight spicy flavours and a touch of herbs on the end.  A very very pretty wine.  90pts £30.00

The next wine I tried was the 1999 Jim Barry The McRae Wood Shiraz.  From the Clare Valley, again this wine has a pretty nose, with lovely fresh cherry mixed with darker, dried fruit coming through.  The palate has a delicious mint toffee flavour, coated with chocolate and with hints of coffee.  Very gentle, with sweeter brambles coming through and lots of savoury notes to the end.  Definitely Australian, but the maturity of this wine creates delightful experience that you normally only get with old world wines.  91pts £37.00

They aren't cheap, but they are outstanding.  I'll leave it to you whether you think I'm talking about the wines or Dolly's chest.

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