Described in the Sotherby's Wine Encyclopedia as "The richest and fattest of Madeira's four classic grape varieties" and not a word more, I can't help think that Boal has been done a disservice. Boal is a Portuguese grape variety, probably best known for being grown on Madeira, and used for making the sweeter fortified wines that get their name from the island, and it is this that I'm going to focus on.
When Boal grapes are being used to make Madeira, they are often fermented on their skins to get more phenolic characters from the grapes as they need to balance the wine's sweetness. This sweetness allows the wines to have a natural preservative - in the same way that port and Sauternes have - and can allow incredible ageing potential. Madeira is aged in barrels to allow an oxidative quality to the wine but unlike other wines, is kept in high temperatures - essentially cooking the wine. This stabilises the wines and allows the wines to last a long time, even when opened.
To prove this longevity and quality, I sampled a bottle of Madeira that was 104 years old, and had spent a century in barrel. Saying it is simply 'rich and fat' is as much of a misrepresentation as saying the actress Anne Hathaway is a podgy minger.
1908 d'Oliveiras Reserva Boal
Dark brown in colour with a ruby red core, this wine has aromas of moscovado sugar, bundles of old balsamic vinegar and sweet, dark espresso. Very lively on the palate, a good chunk of alcohol, and incredible lively acidity surrounded by tar-like flavours. It was insane how youthful this was but with massive maturity as well. Was it too young? 94pts
When I put some old, hard cheese with it, the wine simply transformed into a beautiful creature, calming the alcohol and acid and producing one of the best food and wine pairings I've ever had.
When I put some old, hard cheese with it, the wine simply transformed into a beautiful creature, calming the alcohol and acid and producing one of the best food and wine pairings I've ever had.
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