#456 100 Grapes - Blaufrankisch

Austrian Gruner Veltliner is a grape that is putting this old wine country back on the map, but in the shadows is a red varietal that could be to Gruner what Pinot Noir is to Kiwi Sauvignon.  It is the wonderfully named Blaufrankisch.  

A dark skinned variety that produces tannic, dark spicy wines, it is indigenous to central Europe, where it is known by many names including Frankovka, Lemberger and Kekfrankos.  It has also played a major part on the international market as it has been used in the infamous 'Bull's Blood'.  To try this variety I tasted a trio of wines from it's homeland in Austria on the eastern border with Hungary, an area called Burgenland or, as it is better known, Blaufrankischland.

2009 Schiefer Eisenberg Blaufrankisch

Some rubber elements off the nose with a little bit of sweet cherry coming off.  The palate has a bit of sweetness up front, then has some crisp red apple skin coming through and a little bit of sherberty fizz coming through. I'd pass on this.  83pts

2009 Kirnbauer Mittelburgenland Blaufrankisch

Almost like being in a winery - half finished still fermenting wine with a bit of pork fat coming off.  Some nice, fresher light red berries - cranberry and redcurrant - mixed with a little dark savoury notes and a little bit of black pepper.  Good balance, the warm finish does creep in, but generally, not a bad wine.  87pts

2007 Kirnbauer Vitikult Blaufrankisch

Polished wood mixed with some red berries and a little stewed fruit coming off with some herbal notes.  The palate is fuller, some   coffee and a little spike of alcohol on the mid palate, with a bit of rounder, baked berry flavours.  OK just a bit big.  86pts


There appear to be two main styles here, one a bit crisper and purer and one that has a bit of weight and oak to it.  I think the Vitikult certainly is in the latter, whereas the Schiefer tries to be the more pure style but is done a bit clumsily with too much acid.