Gin came over to the UK in the early 17th century when William of Orange occupied the British throne, and was incredibly popular, and this continued throughout the British colonies, where gin was used to disguise the bitter taste of the quinine in tonic water, drunk for it's antimalarial properties, and the gin and tonic was born.
For years, all people drank was Gordons and other mass produced gins, and it was generally drunk by people who were silver of hair. In recent years, we have seen a plethora of gin producers emerge onto the market and the age of gin drinkers has plummeted half a century. I thought it about time I tried a number of gins made by smaller producers, and a few of the old, mainstream brands, and then, find out which makes the best gin and tonic. I'll be trying three gins from the big distillers, three Scottish, three English and, starting with, three American artisan producers.
I know, your wouldn't think that America has been a major player in gin production, but if you think that, you obviously haven't watched M*A*S*H. Remember the still that Alan Alda's character Hawkeye built out of test tubes and other medical equipment? Well the product of that was gin, and similarly, during prohibition, flavoured neutral spirits were being produced in huge quantities. Certainly, it was probably nearer the quality of gins from 11th century Italy, but nevertheless it was gin. Now there are a group of producers in America that are producing smaller batch gins, and I tried three.
First up was Aviation Gin, from Portland, Oregon. (42%abv) It has a spicy nose, some coriander coming through with a very aromatic spice aroma - almost like milk infused with Cardamom. The palate has aniseed up front, followed by the juniper flavours and although the mid palate has a tiny alcohol spike, it settles down to finish with citrus pith, some peppery spice and a lovely, clean finish. This is a super gin. 93pts £30-£34
Moving to Denver, Colorado, I next tried Leopold's Small Batch Gin. (40%abv) This gin had a bright, sweetness up front with some herb stalks and an orange flower water aroma emerging from the glass. The palate is gentle, clean and with some juniper, plum stone and mint flavours with lemon and lime pith clearing things up and an amazingly clean, yet fuller bodied, finish. 92pts £35-£40
Finally was Death's Door Gin from Washington Island, Wisconsin. (47%abv). A beautiful floral aroma that is very attractive with a lot of lavender and then with some lime cordial notes coming off. The palate is supremely balanced, a touch of heat kicks in and then with liquorice menthol and aniseed coming gently off on the back end. Gorgeous. 94pts £40-£45
America can produce world leading gins, and there are many on the market aside from this trio. They are a bit pricy, so I would suspect the majority of bottles sold in the UK will be to swankier bars and to gin fans, but if you do see them behind a bar, give them a shot.
To find out more about the gins, the botanicals and the companies, visit their websites
Aviation Gin
Leopold Brothers
Death's Door Gin
Next: English Gins
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