Australian wine is expensive now. The country that once undercut everyone with their fruit forward mass produced wines finally appears to have had a reality check and are now realising that to produce good wine you have to spend money on it. The net result of this, coupled with economic issues, increases in costs etc etc etc, is that Australian wine is bloody expensive, but - on a positive side - it is now getting bloody good as well.The problem facing Australia now is the lower end of the price bands. What can you get for under a tenner that is comparable to the offerings from Chile, Italy, Spain or France? The answer is not a lot. Finding wines at this price that aren't so juicy and sweet they may as well be coming out of a carton with a cartoon blackberry on the front is hard. So I thought bugger it, and looked at a trio of wines from Australia that is echoing a Burgundian style - and a Burgundian price.
By Farr is a father and son operation in Geelong, Australia. Gary Farr (the father) has spent 13 years in Burgundy at Domain Dujac, as well as in Oregon and California. His son, Nick, after initially being used as forced labour hoeing the weeds as a child, has followed his father through Domain Dujac and also Au Bon Climat in America. Essentially, these men know Burgundian varietals, not only in Burgundy, but around the world, and they produce high end Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in their homeland. Here is what I thought.
2008 By Farr Geelong Chardonnay
Slight smoked citrus fruit - maybe a citrus candle! - with a touch of wet slate and lime coming off the nose. There is some up front sweet citrus on the palate, then subtle use of oak. It is a very bright wine, with an oily, oaky texture. Lacks a little bit of complexity that I would hope a wine of this price would have, and I've tried better Chardonnays from within Australia with a Burgundian nod, but it is still a good wine if a bit pricy at £45. 88pts
2008 By Farr Geelong Farrside Pinot Noir
Crisp, bright cherries and raspberries with lots of sweet spice and red apple skin on the nose, ended with just a touch of smoke. The palate is rounded, with juicy fresh cherry, and then the spice and under ripe cranberries comes through with what I though was lamb fat and tart raspberries. Beautifully balanced and very attractive. This wine is worth the £45 it costs and then some. 92pts
2008 By Farr Geelong Tout Pres Pinot Noir
Baked meat on the nose, with a berry concentrate coming through. A very herbal, very savoury nose. The palate is quite chunky, yet soft and inviting with lots of spice, cranberry and dried leaves. Very well balanced, with the weight being compensated for by the bright fruit that emerges, softened by the rounder fruit flavours and given structure by the veggie elements of the wine. The question is, is it worth the £72 you would have to pay for it? I'd say that if you are a Pinot lover, the answer is yes as it is worth the money but if you just want a good Pinot Noir, give the Farrside a go instead. 96pts
By Farr Website
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