And their wine is certainly something they should be proud of. Predominantly white wines, Friuli makes wine that show an elegance that is alien to other parts of Italy. The Friulano grape is the one that they tend to be most proud of, but the region is good for numerous others including the Ribolla Gialla and the more easy-to-sell Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Red grows here too, including the local Pignolo, that was so near to extinction there were only four plants remaining.
My visit to Friuli started at the Abbazia di Rosazzo, in the Coli Orientali of Friuli. This abbey surrounds a 1000 year old church, dedicated to St Peter the Apostle. Finding yourself in a building a millennium old is one thing, but then being shown to a 700 year old wine cellar is a special moment! There is evidence that shows that as far back as 1341 this abbey was cultivating vines and actively encouraging others to. In a document dated 20th January, 1341it tells how "The Patriacrch Bertrando has threatened the excommunication of several people, who after having occupied a wood belonging to the Abbey of Rosazzo, did not want to plant vines". Being kicked out a church for not planting vines is certainly encouragement to grow grapes!
This cellar is the oldest in Friuli, and is the home to a wine, named after the Abbey. Made from a blend of Friulano, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Bianco, Malvasia and Ribolla Gialla, this wine is made by Livio Felluga, the abbey's vineyards were restored in 1979. Under a blackberry tree next to the cellar door - the cellar is still without electricity and has a very distinct odour of old wood, damp earth and urine - I tried the wine.
The 2009 Abbazia di Rosazzo Bianco was bright and citrussy with fresh grapefruit and a lovely mineral aroma. There is some white peach stone, a pip and pithy flavour coming through too with lovely sandstone like nuances. It was quite a full wine, a little nutty and just a hint of lighter herbs, but very complex and tightly layered. It was a lovely wine, but I do have reservations about the price. At £60, it is a touch high, but even factoring this in, it was still a lovely wine. 90pts
Our next stop was at Livio Felluga itself. This producer, now in its fifty fith year, was first introduced to me at Vinitaly in 2008. I remember their whole range being lovely, but with the odd exception, a little overpriced. In the following years, my view has changed a bit and I actually think that, although not cheap, are much more in line with their competitors from Italy and beyond.
Buying his first bit of land at Rosazzo in the 1950's, Livio Felluga had to work hard in the hillsides before he could focus on his vines as the rural areas were in decline. Workers were moving to the towns to work in new factories, the vineyards were in a horrific state and Felluga fought against all this to establish high quality vineyards in the Friulian hills. I tried his wines in the cellar in Brazzano.
2010 Livio Felluga Sharis
Lovely freshness, some melon on the nose with a little fresh apple coming through. The is a bit of mango as well. The palate has a lovely freshness, some lemon, a touch of grapefruit and some creamy texturejust coming through. Very well balanced, a little bit of spice and some wax on the back end. 91pts £20
2010 Livio Felluga Friulano
A little rose water on the nose, some oriental spice and a little bit of soap coming off. The is lots of spice, a lovely white pepper and cumin with some nutty flavours. Almond does come through, then some salt and a little bit of grapefruit on the finish. The spice builds on the finish. 89pts £22
2010 Livio Felluga Sauvignon
Very soft and subtle gooseberry coming through. There is a grassy green pepper note, and it is very simple and elegant. The palate is bright, light with fresh fruit and just a little bit of under ripe apple coming through. There is a floral stalk element, with some floral elements on th finish and just a small alcohol spike, but that is cleaned up wonderfully. 88pts Not available in the UK
2009 Livio Felluga Vertigo
A blend of Merlot and Cabernet, this is very approachable, some bright fresh fruit, a lightness to it with a lot of cherry and strawberry. A little bit of aniseed coming off as well. The palate is very drinkable, simple and attractive. There is a little cherry fruit with some bright fresh berries and a little bit of sweet vegetal flavours. A good, drying, slightly leathery finish but with a lightness too. 91pts £20
2010 Livio Felluga Pinot Grigio
Very fresh and clean with bright grapefruit and lime aromas. There is a softness on the palate, lots of pear and and small nudges of citrus coming through a spiced, minerally finish, but this is still too overpriced. That doesn't matter though as the Friulano and the Sharis are the wines you want to buy. 86pts £24
2009 Livio Felluga Terre Alte
A little ginger comes up front with very nice oaky notes coming through the mango and a little smoky meat fat aroma. The palate is lovely with super fresh tropical fruit a little bit of spice and a bitter pith flavour towards the end. A superb wine. 95pts £55
2009 Livio Felluga Illivio
Big, rich and oaky with lovely pithy full aroma. Very approachable and lush with a gorgeous oaky note mixed with Ginger, a lovely tropical fruit. Full but so well balanced on the palate with delightful mango flavours and a touch of pepper on the finish. A super wine and if you prefer an oakier style, you will prefer this over the Terre Alte. 94pts £32
2007 Livio Felluga Sosso
Beautifully balanced with lovely cherry and damson aromas. There is a little cocoa and leather as well. The palate has very nice dried fruit, a dark complexity with really velvety leather flavours. Some spice on the finish seasons the dried fruit and dark chocolate flavours. 91pts £53
2007 Livio Felluga Picolit
Bright, fresh, light floral aromas with some lemon and a bit of sweet and orange. Rosewater with a lovely brightness and then a sweet light oily texture. Very delicate with super balance with a finish of a little honey and grapefruit. 95pts £95
These wines from Livio Felliga are super, and I'm pleased that my view has changed and the majority of the wines are now worth what you are paying for them. The economy going wrong and other producers increasing their prices more has brought these products into the correct price range. Obviously there are exceptions, I think the Pinot Grigio is overpriced and fantastic as the Picolit is, paying nearly a hundred pounds for a 50cl bottle of sweet wine is too much for this wine. I'd suggest you seek out the Sharis, Friulano and Vertigo - three wines for around the £20 price that offer super, ready to drink wines.
Links
Livio Felluga
Abbazia di Rosazzo
Terre & Vini
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