I adore Tokaji. The Hungarian sweet wine that, to me, is preferable to any Sauternes is one of the most decedent and delicious wines in the world. The grape which normally is the backbone of their sweeter wines is the Furmint. Thought to have come to Hungary in the 13th century, Furmint tends to be planted in the eastern European nations and former Soviet states, and is taken from the word 'Froment', that refers to the wheat-gold colour wines it produces. I was eager to see if Hungary could do as well with dry wines as they can with sweet, and tried two dry versions of this grape today. There could not have been more of a difference!
2009 Patricius Tokaj Furmint
Pale in colour with a nose of steely, metallic aroma and some grapefruit pith. A lot of minerally, chalk like aromas and just a slight squirt of lemon skin oil over the top. The palate was lean, very minerally with lots of citrus pith, a bit of lemon rind and a slight lime taste. Mainly though, it is all minerals. The finish is long, and not unpleasant, it is just boring. 5/10
2008 Royal Tokaji Furmint
More golden in colour, some rhubarb coming off a richer, darker nose, with a sweeter vegetal aroma, almost like spinach water. The palate has a bit of Tokaji funk, some more of the rhubarb and some wet greens coming through. A strange wine, you notice its Tokaji origins, lots of spice, a bit of nutmeg, and a really interesting finish with nice dried honey flavours mixed with spiced apple. Really interesting and really tasty with a great clean finish. A totally different wine from the Patricius. 8/10
2009 Patricius Tokaj Furmint
Pale in colour with a nose of steely, metallic aroma and some grapefruit pith. A lot of minerally, chalk like aromas and just a slight squirt of lemon skin oil over the top. The palate was lean, very minerally with lots of citrus pith, a bit of lemon rind and a slight lime taste. Mainly though, it is all minerals. The finish is long, and not unpleasant, it is just boring. 5/10
2008 Royal Tokaji Furmint
More golden in colour, some rhubarb coming off a richer, darker nose, with a sweeter vegetal aroma, almost like spinach water. The palate has a bit of Tokaji funk, some more of the rhubarb and some wet greens coming through. A strange wine, you notice its Tokaji origins, lots of spice, a bit of nutmeg, and a really interesting finish with nice dried honey flavours mixed with spiced apple. Really interesting and really tasty with a great clean finish. A totally different wine from the Patricius. 8/10
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