The one thing I missed when I visited Champagne in May was a proper old French town. That trip centred around Epernay and Reims and, fantastic as it was, the nearest we got to Olde World France was at Mesnil when the roads were a bit dusty and the streets very thin, but it really didn't cut the mustard.
This old town is near to the headquarters of Champagne Devaux, set in the Aube region of Champagne, where Pinot Noir is the dominant variety grown. Despite a long history, this co-operative, whilst making some good, classical wines, also appears to be a little experimental, and I immediately thought of the port house Niepoort, who combine the traditional with the experimental. I like Niepoort for this wierd approach on wine making, so Devaux immediatley endeared itself to me. The company is also the largest grower in the region with over 1400 hectares under vine in Aube and the Cote des Blancs, and sells it’s juice to companies including Moet & Chandon and Krug, so we are not talking small producer, just one that isn't marketed to the level of the big boys.
First up was the Devaux Grande Reserve NV. Quite a bit of fresh citrus, crisp apple acidity and some pithy element too. The palate was slightly under ripe yellow plum, and with peach and a sweet lemon flavour. There was a zing on the finish as well, and, overall, it was quite a nice champagne. The only downside was the texture of the fizz, it was just a bit too light and frothy for my liking, but this is a minor issue, and a personal one! 7.5/10 and £26.
Next up the Devaux Blanc de Noirs NV, from the Cote des Bars. An extra year bottle maturation (4 years instead of the normal 3 for the NV), and this is a big, rich wine. Lots of raspberries, a faint hint of Irn Bru – God only knows where that came from – and then summer pudding, lots of red berries and a doughy, bread element. The finish is quite long, with a nice dry element. It’s good. 7.5/10 and £29 per bottle.
The Collection D range is interesting. Two wines, the La Cuvee and the L’Ultra which were exactly the same, except they had different dosage. (9 grams and 2 grams respectively. The D de Devaux La Cuvee was all about crunchy apples smeared with a light floral honey and new potato skin on the nose. The palate was quite savoury, some brioche and a very pithy element. Lemon, some lime too and a bit of mango skin completed the palate, with a spice hint on the back end. A very interesting, and tasty, wine worth the £35 you would be paying. 8.5/10
The D de Devaux L’Ultra was excellent! A lot of oyster shell – salty with a lemon squeezed onto it, came off the nose. The palate was very dry, zinging citrus and so well balanced. There was grapefruit galore , and despite being very dry, the fact that this has had five years in bottle has softened it down and makes it a very good champagne. 8.5/10 and £40.
The 2002 Millesime was next and this 100% Chardonnay wine is a deliberate move away from the Pinot Noir dominant house style. A very interesting and intriguing nose, clean at first and then some smoke, but a nice, rich, butter and melon aroma. The palate is full, but still fresh, with grapefruit pith and a bit of a chewy, chalky element – it is almost like a chewable indigestion tablet!!! I like it, but it needs a lot of age. 8/10 and not available in the UK yet.
The 2000 Vintage, a 50-50 split of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, was very rich, quite meaty, with digestive biscuits on the palate, mixed with stir fried green peppers. Sweet red fruit, great mouth feel and a bit of fruit pie, sprinkled with lemon juice and dirty lime skin. I like this. 8.5/10 and £35.
Finally, a trio of Rose. The D de Devaux le Rose was first. This £48 wine had cranberry and a little liquorice on the nose. The palate was nice, simple and fresh with some slightly confected strawberry flavours. These then transform into a strawberry milkshake flavour before they are stopped by a lovely sweet aniseed element. This saves the day, and makes me quite like it. 8/10
Next up was the Cuvee Rose, two thirds Pinot Noir and one third Chardonnay. There was immediate fresh strawberries, some glace cherries too on the nose. The palate had some up front sweetness, which softens to give a nice, deeper palate. It is a simple rose, and whilst nice, isn’t something I’d buy. It is just a bit too samey. 7/10, £32.
Finally was the Rose Intense from the Cote des Bars. Described as Steffi Graf (has a big nose), this wine was all about cherries, maraschino everywhere with some aniseed on the nose, and then so many more cherries on the palate. A wine that goes exceptionally well with food, and one that just rocks and is so funky on it’s own. 8.5/10 and £35.
Devaux produce good wines at good prices. The packaging is stylish, the wine is good and, whilst they have an on trade appeal, should be seen more in off licenses as they offer something different from the Moet and Taittingers that you see everywhere.
Tomorrow - Burgundy
With thanks to Champagne Devaux and Liberty Wines
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