Organics - trying a brace of green wines

Have you ever heard of a chap called Walter James? He was born in 1896 and died in 1982, was a British peer, author and Olympic rowing silver medallist in the 1920 games. Still doesn’t ring any bells? Well he contributed a phrase to the English language that everyone is using now. He coined the term “organic farming” in his 1939 book Look to the Land.

And nowadays everything has to be organic. Milk, eggs, bread, chickens, whisky (thanks for that Benromach!) and, of course, wine. I have frequently been asked my thoughts on Organic wines by customers and my reply usually goes down like a lead balloon. I really couldn’t care if a wine is organic or not! If it is tasty, it is fine for me and the fact that it has been obliterated with chemicals doesn’t bother me a bit. Having said that, I have tried a lot of wines that are organic and have been exceptionally good, but I’ve always thought that is more to the skill of the winemaker than it is the fact that the grapes are chemical free. Having said that, I’d probably buy organic beef or eggs or milk, so I accept that my views on organics are not consistent!

Presented with a selection of wines from organic producers, I went in hoping that they would perform well and prove that with pure-as-the-driven-snow grapes, these wine makers could produce a masterpiece. Or would it prove that you can muck things up on a grand scale, even if you have good grapes?

1996 Fleury Pere & Fils Brut (France)
The first champagne that has been certified as biodynamic, so, for that reason, this is a significant wine to taste. Nice golden colour, very rich, old champagne nose. Lots of mushroom, lime pickle and a dirty lime skin component. Then biscotti on the nose. Nice mousse, big lemon flavours, a lot of toast and a zingy, lemon and lime flavour. Long, nice finish, hints of ceps and honey mixed with zingy grapefruit. I like this. 8/10

2008 Meinklang Gruener Veltliner (Austria)
Grapefruit and lots of salty minerals. A little honeydew melon too. Palate is dry, got a bit of a thick component on it. Lots of pear, lots of zesty acid laden fruit. Finish is clean but has a chalk and tangerine flavour I’m not too keen on. 6.5/10

2008 Albet i Noya Xarel.lo Classic Vinyes Velles (Spain)
Light, fresh aromas. Peach, some zingy fruit, a lot of sherbert lemons. Palate is nice, simple crisp apples and a touch of veggies – cucumber? A little too much acid on the palate, a lot of sandstone flavours too. Strips you mouth out on the finish, needs food. 7/10

2007 Albet i Noya Lignum Blanco (Spain)
A blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay and, as usual, it sucks! There is the mango, tropical fruit element on the nose, then pineapple comes in and then eldeflower clashing with everything. The palate is horrible! You get elderflowers starting off nicely, then the fatter chardonnay flavours come in and spoil it. The Sauvignon is like a fat person holding their stomach in. It may make the overall picture look thinner, but they are still fat. This is really not my thing. 5/10

2006 Chateau de Brau Cuvee Exquise Cabardes (France)
A lightly oaked Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon blend. Very polished, a lot of meaty black pudding aromas – meaty and spicy. Black pepper too. Palate is dry, medium weight, a good veggie component coming through. Lots of cherry stone and light hints of liquorice mixed with the first suck on an aniseed ball! Not bad. 7/10

2006 Albet i Noya Lignum Tinto (Spain)
A Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignan blend. Lots of raspberry and blueberry with a touch of cream to the nose. Palate is nice, quite savoury, lots of tannin coming through and a lot of spice. Cocoa powder and then some hazelnut flavours. Needs to be a bit softer, and has a sweet element on the finish, a combination of fruit and tobacco. OK. 6.5/10

2005 Albet i Noya Finca La Milana (Spain)
A lot of blackcurrants, some chunky fruit and a lot of herby, berry compote aromas. The palate is nice, pretty full with some silky tannins, a bit of cocoa and then a leathery tobacco element. A little fruit dip on the finish, spoiling it as there is no fruit to back up the secondary flavours. 7/10 but should deliver more.

2007 Domaine Jean Bousquet Malbec Reserva (Argentina)
Big and chocolatey, lots of cassis, perfume and a little bacon fat. Watermelon Jolly Ranchers as well! Palate is dark, some sweetness from the fruit. Nice balance initially, then the fruit, which is slightly confected, comes through. Liquorice on the finish and a bitter, long living finish that spoils the wine a bit. This is the legendary party guest that pees in the kitchen sink at the end of the night. 95% great, 5% horrible. 7/10

So really, I have achieved nothing! Some organic wines were good, some were bad. But you have learned where ‘organic’ originated, so not all your time was wasted reading this!