Founded in 1864, this Eperney based champagne house is owned by a Sekt company, Henkell & Trocken, yet is still one of the most traditional producers in Champagne. Acclaimed by 'Bubble Gurus' Tom Stevenson and Richard Juhlin, I tasted two of this Champagne house's vintages recently.
Firstly, the 1983 which was surprisingly light, despite being Pinot Noir dominant. It was almost like a newly released early millennium champagne, that is how youthful the nose was. A touch of lemon pith started things off with a little mashed potato coming through. Nicely dry with a lovely bitter pencil lead coming through and lime on the finish. Awarding it 8/10, I thought that this, very youthful, style was the house norm. Then I tried the 1989.
This vintage was totally different. This was a Chardonnay based wine, yet has a richness that I'd normally associate with a wine of the '83's makeup (40%Pinot Noir, 20% Pinot Meunier and 40% Chardonnay). This champagne (10%PN 30%PM & 60%CH) appeared a lot older, more complex and altogether more appealing for someone who wants a champagne that is 19 years old. Rich, very rich, with a lot of honey, pistachio and digestive biscuits. Lemon skin comes across on the palate with a nice mouse, great acidity that strips your mouth and leaves you salivating. Brilliant stuff, and worthy of 8.5/10.
That is not to say that the '83 is not a brilliant wine. I just think it is too young. It should last ages, and maybe one day in a decade or so it will be offering the aged taste and smell that a wine of it's years should.
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