We are all told to allow wine to breathe. It allows them to open up, to bring out hidden flavours and aromas. So, when I opened up a 1998 Chateau Maucaillou, I did what I usually do and try a bit and write a note. Then, a couple of hours later, after allowing them to breathe, I tried them again and found that I'd killed it, by allowing it to breathe.
On opening
Menthol, boot polish, a bit of spice, with a good meaty nose. There is soft, grippy tannin, nice liquorice flavours and dark chocolate and cherry stone. 7/10
After 2 hours
A very balanced nose, with subtle menthol aromas, spice is there too but the main difference is that they all work so well together. The palate starts off with the same grippy tannin, but then it gets bitter. You feel as though you are sucking on a pencil. The fruit has gone and you are left with charcoal and black pepper corns on the finish. 5/10
I'm not saying breathing doesn't work, it does. I really think that regardless of what wine you are drinking, everything from a new world Sauvignon to a 50 year old Barolo, needs at least a little air, even if it is just a few swirls round the glass. After just 2 hours open, 1998 Chateau Maucaillou is a bit like a turkey on January 12th - it has been allowed to breathe too long.
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