#416 The Cardinal's Grapes - Cabernet Franc

The history of the grape starts in southwest France, and it was Cardinal Richelieu, immortalised in Alexandre Dumas' novel The Three Musketeers, who transported the grape to the Abbey of Bourgueil in the Loire Valley in the 17th Century.  By the 18th Century the grape was widespread between the Libournais region and the Loire but it's popularity was short lived as Cabernet Sauvignon  became increasingly popular.  Now Cabernet Franc is a grape that often plays second fiddle to Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot, being blended to give a finesse and peppery note to these bigger grapes, but this is vastly unfair to this grape. 

Due to it's earlier ripening, Cabernet Franc has had the ability to shine is cooler climates like the Loire, but this advantage has also made it even more under rated in Bordeaux, as it has been used as an 'insurance policy' in case there is bad weather that ruins the Cabernet Sauvignon harvest.  It is now grown in Italy and Canada (where it is made into Icewine), but if it is going to gain international recognition, it is likely going going to be through the grape being grown in the USA's cooler states such as New York, Colorado and Pennsylvania.

I tried three Cabernet Francs from different regions.  Firstly, and Italian wine, followed by a Saumur from the Loire, and finally, a wine that showcases Cabernet Franc in Bordeaux.

2008 La Tunella Cabernet Franc (£10)
In the third generation of the family that found it, La Tunella is a producer that I'm not familiar with, and I don't want my comments on this wine to be a reflection on the company's portfolio.  It was an international style 'wine', not showing any characteristics of the grape, nor the region.  A little bit of clay on the nose, some big brambley notes up front. The palate has a green, vegetal note with some sweet candied elements on the back end.  It is not balanced, but is drinkable and you could polish off a bottle.  It is just boring and big and blousy.  79pts

2009 La Cabriole Saumur (£10)
This is what I'm wanting from a Loire Cabernet Franc.  Soft vegetal aromas with some cherry stone and cranberry aromas.  The palate is well balanced with nice crisp veggie elements, a little crisp acid on the back end.  I think that this is a good example of what Cabernet Franc should be, simple, very drinkable and showing both the cooler climate of the region, and the grape's characters well.  88pts

2004 Le Dome (£100)
From a vineyard less than three hectares in size, this is a Cabernet Franc dominated blend (the other part being old vine Merlot) from St Emilion in Bordeaux.  It is the tricky one of this trio.  Bottom line, it is a well made wine, very tasty and does taste like Cabernet Franc.  The problem is that it is horrifically expensive and appears to be going for an American Cabernet lover's palate.  Rich, dark liquorice and with lots of toffee and chocolate mixed with some dark, pruney, leafy aromas.  the palate is dark, well balanced, firm tannins and with lots and lots of tobacco and coffee.  Some cabbagey elements on the front end, a bit of heat on the back end, but a good wine and I do like it, but is it proper Bordeaux? No.  85pts