It isn’t often that a new way of selling wine is introduced onto the market, let alone one that uses a super hero to do it, but that is exactly what Richard Kelley has recently launched. Kelley is one of the leading authorities on South African wine having lived there for seven years and seen the rebirth of this country’s wines as a post apartheid nation. And now he has created “Rick”, or to use the super hero name “The Liberator”, who’s role is to seek out and liberate rare South African wines from being blended into lesser wines or disposed of in bulk.
They are all bottled with comic book labels, and a limited run of bottles per ‘Episode’ (release). It is a clever idea – after all, even a huge producer like KWV will have small parcels of good wine, shining like a Batsignal from the humdrum rubbish that they usually bottle - but it would never sell under their own brand. The Liberator would allow this wine to make it to market, hidden behind colourful packaging with not a hint of the big brand. Similarly, extra wine for a small producer can be put out in this fashion, to get feedback on their wine without needing to establish themselves in the UK. I took a look at the first two Episodes of the Liberator.
Superman has to be the greatest superhero. Originating in comic books, he got several big budget films starring hunky action heroes in skin tight lycra. Well, unfortunately, Episode 1 from The Liberator, is more of a Bananaman – a geek that has a pet crow and is voiced by the Goodies. Essentially, it is a poor show in comparison to its illustrious, and sexier, stablemate. This 2009 blend of Chenin, Viognier, Chardonnay and Clairette Blanc called The Bureaucrat has light oak aromas, hints of lemon, pineapple and a savoury sweetness that reminded me of black bean sauce. The palate has more oak, quite fierce alcohol and a lot of bitter elements to it. Then a flavour as if someone had put toffee sauce on salty popcorn. It really is a pretty poor show for £13. 6/10
Episode 2 however, the 2008 Unsung Hero, is a blend of Syrah, Mourvedre, Carignan and Grenache and is pretty tasty. Light cherry and chocolate on the nose with sweet coffee coming through. There is a little rubber on the nose, and some charred red peppers. The palate is quite thick, some stone fruit and a dark liquoricey element with more pepper and tree bark elements. Good spice on the finish and some more savoury elements. 7.5/10 This wine might not be Superman – no doubt that Rick will come up with some outstanding wines in the future that will take that role, but this is definitely a Batman – maybe Val Kilmer’s Batman, but still Batman!
I like the concept that Kelley has come up with, and I do know his palate to be a good one. This concept of liberating hidden wines from South Africa is aimed squarely at the South African wine enthusiast or at someone who likes the cartoony labels. The enthusiast is going to relish the chance of trying strange and wonderful wines from the Cape, but at some point, they are going to want to know who makes these wines, and where the fruit comes from. I hope the Liberator becomes one of the great superheroes and not a Captain Caveman!
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Peter