My trip to Vinitaly was an eye opener, but looking back, I didn’t do one producer justice. While I was attempting to wax lyrical about Allegrini, Bruno Rocca and Pieropan, I omitted an important producer. Specogna.Christian Specogna, who showed me the wines in Italy, looks like he should be in a boy band. In a suit that looked as though it has been bought for him to grow into, this youngster had an enthusiasm for his family’s wines that was so infectious you couldn’t help but like them. I didn’t write them up though, deciding that there were other producers I wanted to focus on and that Pinot Grigio, regardless of how good and popular it was, wasn't really interesting.
I was a bloody idiot! Specogna are so much more than Pinot Grigio, and trying some of the wines from this producer today – in the less glamorous surroundings of a back room at work!
The 2006 Specogna Ribella Gialla is really good. Light, lemony with beautiful minerality on the nose. A lot of alcohol hits you, but settles down with crisp, vegetal elements and wonderful acidity. It confuses me. I can’t figure out where I would drink it, but it is very very good. I’d give it 8/10 despite it costing £13.
The ’06 Pinot Grigio Ramato is getting a little tierd. I will tell you that the tank sample of the 2007 vintage I had in Italy was brilliant, so look out for that. This vintage however is good, a little lime pith and under ripe red berried. Then orange kicks in from somewhere. The wine has a cleanliness of Cillit Bang proportions. Brilliant with just a little charred wood on the finish. 8.5/10 £13
Tocai Friulano 2006. This is where things start getting really interesting. Lychee sweetness on the nose with a little barbecued smokiness coming through. A little nut – almond? – coming through too. A wonderfully dry, minerally palate, fresh and stunningly clean. Long lasting nut flavours and a little peach skin on the finish. A fun wine and deserving of it’s 8.5/10. £13
Then it gets more crazy! The 2006 Verduzzo Friulano is a wine you must try before you die. Not because it is one of the greatest wines ever made, though it is very very good, but because it is SO interesting. Gentle honey and lemon on the nose, but quite closed. Then when it hits your palate you get tannin mingling with sweet honey and lemon. A Thai spice element too, before it dries up with toast and warmed honey and some fruit tea flavours. It is a bizarre single varietal wine, that won’t go with many desserts, but for some reason I really want to try this with a custard slice! It is a wonderful wine, one of those that the experience will live with you despite it only costing twelve quid. 9.5/10
Finally, the 2004 Pignolo is another strange one! Cherry and herb lawns, a lot of plum skin, leathery, dark liquorice aromas. A lot of spice and quite hot alcohol coming through. Firm tannin and a lot of the dark, secondary flavours. It is lacking a bit of fruit, but with a selection of olives, salami and bread for your lunch in the sunshine, I can think of few wines I’d prefer! It is a food wine, pure and simple, and it has to be with strong flavoured food to work. This is not a wine for drinking on it’s own. 8/10 & £21
I like Specogna. I like the people, I like the passion and I like their wines. They have mastered the art of making beautifully clean wines. They are all affordable, and if you have more than a passing interest in Italian wines, give these a go. It is money well spent.
Specogna Website
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