There is a scene in the Disney cartoon Ratatouille where the ‘evil nemisis’ food critic, Anton Ego, takes a mouthful of food cooked by a rat and it transported him back to his childhood, such was the power of the food.I had a similar experience at Pieropan. A few years ago, I tried a vertical tasting of Alvarinho at Quinta do Soalheiro in Portugal. After spending a week in, possibly, my favourite country when it comes to wine, that tasting on the last night stuck with me the most. Tasting various Soave’s at Pieropan had the same effect on me on Day 2 of the Vinitaly week. We were fortunate to try the most recent vintages, and also a couple of older gems.
The 40th vintage of the Soave Classico was the 2007 vintage. It is, without a shadow of a doubt, the best value for money Soave there is. Retailing at just under a tenner in the UK, it has delightful honey and melon on the nose, coupled with a little bit of lime. The palate is minerally, with a soft, light citrus flavour and a touch of spice. It is so clean and balanced. Stunning. 8.5/10
Pieropan’s Soave Calvarino 2006 is the latest offering of this wine. I’ve always had a soft spot for this wine that was first made in 1971. The Calvarino vineyard has been in the family since 1901, and apparently it ages very well. It was quite cheesy, a lemon curd aroma and a touch of lime zest. Perfumy with great mineral elements and just a touch of booze and white pepper. Very gentle nose but it just explodes in your mouth. Brilliant. 8.5/10
2006 Soave La Rocca. This wine, like me, came along in 1978 and is the only Soave to be aged in oak. It is soft, fuller on the nose with a little popcorn aroma and lemon. The palate is oily, with good lemony flavours and a hint of overripe apple. It is really, really good. 9/10
Then, two older vintages were given to us. The first serving of the 1997 Soave Calvarino was good. Lovely, rich aromas of honey and lemon. A palate like old champagne, honey, brioch and a little gravel and burnt match, just a touch too much alcohol. I scored it 8/10. Then we were presented with the other bottle that had been opened of this wine, and BOY, it was a revelation. All the flavours were the same, but just so much more balanced. Not as much spice, not as much of a boozy kick as the first, and a finish that is so soft and balanced. It was my ‘Ratatouille’ moment and I can’t help scoring it 10/10.
Then to finish, a 1993 Soave La Rocca. Sweet, honey and voluptuous cheesy aromas. A spicy, rich and peppery palate full of lemon zest. So wonderfully spicy with a long finish that is lemony and pithy. 9/10
To visit their vineyards and their cellar was a joy and I’m always worried that my scoring will reflect the location and not the wines which still have to perform when you are at home, on your own, depressed in your bedsit! These wines certainly performed well in spectacular locations, but I guarantee that they will perform well in your home, regardless of how palatial or squalid it may be!
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